Use this seam finish on medium to lightweight fabrics. Overlock, chainstitch, coverstitch, flatlock, rolled hem, all at your fingertips, all crisp and clean. However, there are changes in the machine settings which are discussed in detail further. This is not a stitch that all machines have so you might not be able to locate it on yours, especially if you have an older model. The seam allowance sa is the space between the fabric edge and the seam line.
Although flat seaming is slower than overlock, it saves one complete operation if you plan on coverstitching. Seams drawings index by operations by operations joining bib to overall bag seaming 401 bagging welt pockets on trousers usually 301. An overlock is a kind of stitch that sews over the edge of one or two pieces of cloth for edging, hemming, or seaming. The machine fuses 2 edges of material together creating a smooth, flat seam. The majority of the flatlock machine parts same as overlock machine. It will stitch a chain stitch or a safety stitch as it stitches and overcasts seams. Innovative features make bernina overlockers delightfully easy to use, and ensure. Flatlocking is a great technique to learn on your sergeroverlocker and you dont need any special accessories to do it. The resulting seam lies flat so it is a great option for clothing for kids who find a lot of their seams itchy. Submodels vg8 series interlock flatlockcoverstitch. The industry standard for home sewing patterns is a 58inch seam allowance, which is considerably wider than the default setting for an overlock stitch.
Specialty techniques can be done with a 4thread overlock seam such as gathering, applying piping with the optional piping foot and elastic with the optional elastic. Lets compare a 3thread flatlock to a 2thread flatlock, and have a glimpse at how to create them. Flatlocking compared to cover stitching and overlocking fashion. Finishing off your seams is probably one of the most important parts of the sewing process. Unique layout of feed dogs for flat finish of edge of hem to obtain neat finish of hem. If your machine has the ability to do 2thread stitches, youll have a couple more tricks up your sleeve. Types of serger stitches, what they do and when you should.
Coverlock is the serger stitch plus single or double stitching like on the bottom hem of a t shirt. Bernina overlockers sew, cut and neaten in a single operation in overlock, chain or coverstitch. Some straight stitch machines have sergerlike stitches, but a true serger stitch is done on that specific machine. Unless you want to leave room for future alterations, trim your seam allowances to 14 the illustrations show a 58. Press the seam allowance flat to meld the stitching, then press it open. Nov 20, 20 flatlocking is a great technique to learn on your sergeroverlocker and you dont need any special accessories to do it. Add strength but also a little bulk to a flatlock by sewing a regular seam first, then fold it along the seam, enclosing seam allowances. Usually an overlock sewing machine will cut the edges of the cloth as they are fed through such machines being called sergers in north america, though some are made without cutters. This is possibly the mostoften used stitch because it invariably creates a strong, longlasting seam or hem. Working mechanism of flatlock sewing machine clothing industry. Adjust this closer to the edge if your flat locking doesnt lay flat. For this article, were going to focus on the qualities and differences of those last two.
Press the seam flat with the stitching on the edge of. Overlock sewing machines are specialized, but they do not replace the conventional sewing. A wide variety of flat seam sewing machine options are available to you, such as overlock stitch, lock stitch, and chain stitch. Finishing seams with 12 different types of seam finishes. Can someone tell me what the difference between flatlockflatseam construction and a. In this video we go over the basics of creating a flatlock stitch on an overlock machine. A seam finish is a treatment that secures and neatens the raw edges of a plain seam to prevent raveling, by sewing over the raw edges or enclosing them in some sort of binding. In general, a welded seam can be classified as a joint seam, which is produced directly by welding, whereby the two fabric parts are transformed into one material structure by binding at a molecular level, and a welded seam using adhesive film 6 sealing, which are then used with previously sewn seams to prevent water and air through the stitch. My flat felled seams pins both photos and videos provide me with visual referent sources of design concepts, information, insights, inspiration and ideas about division of space, texture, and low relief examples of light and shadow. Always make sure needles are fully inserted as high as possible, with the flat side to the back. Working mechanism of flatlock sewing machine clothing. Jan 04, 2016 the blind stitch presser foot has a guide that keeps your fabric from the blade and creates loose stitches which will flatten out once you pull your fabric flat. In this machine 4 needles may also be used and sewing may be done using from 4 to 9 threads. Assistant professor, department of family and consumer sciences new mexico state university.
This seam may not pull completely flat because of the amount of thread. Stitch a few stitches, then fold the loose thread chain so you stitch over it. A flatlock can be used both as a decorative construction. The super stretch stitch is perfect for spandex seams.
Both sides of the flatlocking stitch are considered decorative. A wide variety of juki flat lock sewing machine options are available to you, such as stitch formation, feed mechanism, and type. How to sew a flatlock seam using a sewing machine youtube. A twist of the knob for the perfect overlock seam before adjustment with mtc, the seam is too loose and the. There are many different types of seam finishes you can choose from to give your seam a tidy finish. The tensions must be adjusted correctly for the fabric to pull flat properly. Flatlock sewing a flatlock a is made by adjusting the tension of the 3thread overlock stitch, sewing the seam and pulling the fabrics apart to flatten the seam. Flat bed is used for sewing body cloth and cylinder bed is used for sleeve cloth. Two mock flatlock stitches are demonstrated for use in sewing flat seams with lighter weight knits and a sewing machine. Press on the wrong side to ensure the seam is flat. This stitch makes a strong seam, due to the needle and two loop er threads sewn together. Seams are widely used in modern massproduced apparel, footwear, house hold textiles and sporting goods which are sewn by different industrial sewing machines.
Bernina overlockers sew, cut and neaten in a single operation in overlock, chain or. Apr 04, 2020 there are many different types of seam finishes you can choose from to give your seam a tidy finish. Press flat, then trim seam allowances close to the flatlock stitching. It can only be used when the knife and the lower looper are disengaged. Or, if you have one, use the flatlock stitch on your serger. Overlock seams are a cheaper, faster and easier way to sew clothes with but it leaves a bulky uncomfortable seam in your clothes. With a bernina overlocker, your sewing projects take shape unbelievably quickly and effortlessly.
Jul 22, 2012 two mock flatlock stitches are demonstrated for use in sewing flat seams with lighter weight knits and a sewing machine. The presser foot of the flat seamer is a special one in which a cloth cutting mechanism is installed. My machine has 5 different types of overlock stitches and they require a special foot. For this lesson, the overlocked and open seam finish, you will learn how to use your overlock machine to clean finish the edges of your fabric sampler. A 4 mm and 6 mm overedge seam width can be obtained by changing the needle position. Print friendly pdf sewing with an overlock machine is a bit different from sewing with a conventional sewing machine.
View and download bernina 1 instruction manual online. Introduction over lock machine is a special purpose machine used for finishing edges and sometimes for seaming. Exclusively designed sewing parts and wf8, walking pressor foot with guiding groove for tape, ensures a neat finish without puckering. A very wide seam width is created when the chain is serged with 2 or 3 thread stitch. Depending on your machine the overlock stitch can be done all kinds of different ways. In a flat or abutted seam, two pieces of fabric are joined edgeto edge with no overlap and sewn with hand or machine stitching that encloses the raw edges. Apr 10, 2014 theres a chain stitch, lock stitch, topstitch, whipstitch, overlock stitch, flatfelled seamlets just stop there. Apr 07, 2015 flatlock stitch machine video minji lee. Most often an overlock stitch is sewn over or into another seam. A flat felled seam has no visible seam allowance, inside or out. Another remedy is to stabilize the fabric with spray starch alternative. I will highlight the most commonly used basic seams used today, and when you should use them. Simply removing the stitch finger from a 3thread overlock will create a very narrow seam, but not a rolled hem.
Double overlock stitch you can also master the double overlock stitch, which is common in most overlockers today. For example, this machine is used for sewing shirt side seams and under arms, and for sewing jeans inseam. When a sergeroverlock machine is used to construct a seam, the fabric edg es are finished all in one process. Branded by merrow, activeseam is a flat overlock stitch that is available for license to apparel brands through the merrow licensing program. Machines are readily available such as yamato fd62 series. The seam of the overlockcoverstitch as compared to flatlock is thicker because it has layers of fabric. A seam end can be secured by burying it inside the seam. This is an excellent stitch to use on stubborn fabrics that roll naturally or refuse to remain flat. Now, one twist of the mtc knob makes a smooth, tight seam, and makes it easy to. Here you can also see the cut seam allowance edges being vacuumed out into the tube. Theres a chain stitch, lock stitch, topstitch, whipstitch, overlock stitch, flat felled seam lets just stop there. Flatlocking compared to cover stitching and overlocking 21. A more detailed explanation on making a french seam and use it in dressmaking can be found here in the post french seam.
One is the 2thread overlock, a great choice for giving the edges of lighterweight fabrics a flawless finish. Adjusting the needle tension of a 2thread overlock stitch will result in a wrapped edge that is great for finishing blankets and placemats. A 4 mm and 6 mm overlock seam width can be obtained by changing the needle position. Flatlocking works on both woven and stretch fabrics, but because the raw. Advantages and disadvantages of different types of stitch. The seam guide plate is used when sewing the chainstitch, cover stitch and the triple cover stitch. The stitching line along the seam is called the seam line. Different types of industrial sewing machines and their use. Plain seams may also be pressed open, with each seam allowance.
In general, an overlock stitch encloses a seam while using multiple threads to lock each edge this prevents it from fraying. Sewing with flat lock machine the most quantity thread is needed. Antique or old german seam is the 19th century name for a handsewn flat seam that joins two pieces of fabric at their selvages. Seam may be hundred types and these types are classified into eight main classes. Mostly used in sports wear, mens shirts,jeans kids clothes, pyjamas etc. Specialty techniques can be done with a 4thread overlock seam such as gathering, applying piping with the optional piping foot and elastic with the optional elastic foot. Flatlock seam garments are similar to seamless garments. It has plenty of uses including general hemming, seam edges finishing, stitching flatlock seams, seaming and edging woven fabrics, and attaching laces and elastic to lingerie.
I really have learned a lot about serving from your blog. There is also a wheel on it to adjust how close to the edge your needle will pierce the fabric. But i want to make sure were providing high quality and im curious if it is a weaker seam than the true flat lock or just slightly bulkier. Stitch formed by a needle thread passing through the material and. Heres one solutioninstead of pressing the seam open and overlocking each seam allowance separately, overlock your seam allowances together, as one layer, and then press them to the side. A submodel for top stitching on display tape, tape consealing overlock seam on neckline of tshirts. Use this sewing machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. The seam guide plate provides a flat surface for the fabric and seam guides. Lets compare a 3thread flatlock to a 2thread flatlock, and have a glimpse at how to. Seams on exercise wear or wherever flat seam is wanted. Different types of seam finishes learn to sew at home. Stitch types in this class are formed with one or more groups of threads and have a general characteristics that l.
Flatlock stitching is the stitching that looks like. Likewise, dont overlock a mockups seam allowances, since youll probably need to make fit alterations. Flat felled seams are very strong and very durable which is why we are most familiar with flat felled seams being on strong durable fabric such as denim and on jeans. Sewing techniques with an overlock machine college of. Some of the sewing techniques used will require practice to become proficient. Be sure to have your iron set to the correct heat for your fabric type. Overlock definition and meaning collins english dictionary. May 22, 2018 im interested in flat felled seams solely as a low relief design element that can be adapted for use with media such as wood, clay or paper. Overlock is pretty much a serger stitch it goes over the raw edge of the fabric. This ebook will cover practical techniques like securing stitches, sewing corners and curves, as. This is possibly the mostoften used stitch because it. Can be converted to both two and three thread overlock. Flatlocking on a serger overlock machine sewing parts. Top stitching the raglan line is by coverstitch and is used to flatten out the overlock seam in case of medium to heavy.
Bernina overlockers sew, cut and neaten in a single operation. Overlock sewing machine overlock machines are available in 3 threads, 4 threads and 5 threads over edge sewing. About 76% of these are sewing machines, 1% are apparel machine parts, and 0% are shoemaking machines. Because the 4thread overlock uses a second needle in the stitching process, its the strongest serging stitch on your machine, and its the best choice for seaming. Theres a chain stitch, lock stitch, topstitch, whipstitch, overlock stitch, flatfelled seamlets just stop there. Bothside trimming oneside trimming oneside trimming bothside trimming bothside trimming. A special flatlock sewing machine is used to sew flatlock seams. Press the seam flat with the stitching on the edge of the fold. A picot stitch is a delicate way to finish and edge for a simple look. The seam of the overlockcoverstitch as compared to flatlock is thicker. Seam 751a iso 4916 common seam 751a iso 4916 common drawing number number application requirements drawing number number application requirements. If youve ever wanted to cry after playing with your serger, youre not alone.
You can checkout the post on seam allowances for some details on how to sew a straight line and the common seam allowances used seams should be carefully done for a beautifully finished garment. One side of the stitch forms loops and the other side of the stitch looks like ladders. A flat lock is a 4 needle chain stitch machine with a top cover 9 threads. Overlock machine types of stitch lock stitch machine speed 2500s. On massproduced clothing, the seam allowances of plain seams are usually trimmed and stitched together with an overlock stitch using a serger. The flatlock stitch is sewn with one needle and the upper and lower loopers. The inclusion of automated cutters allows overlock machines to create finished seams easily. For a truly flat seam, press from both sides of the fabric.
Flatlocking compared to cover stitching and overlocking. This overlock uses a flat shank industrial needle that eliminates. It is a great way to finish seams on fabrics that fray. Flatlock is the stitch often used in active wear that looks like two flat raw edges are sew together by butting the edges up to each other no overlap or seam. Seam is the combination of stitches which make line to join two ply of fabric. Different types of seams and their uses on garments.